Jonny Johansson blurs structure and softness in a quiet study of modern identity.
At Paris Fashion Week, Acne Studios presented its Spring Summer 2026 collection inside the historic
Collège des Bernardins, a 13th-century space transformed into a warm, amber-lit hall. Creative
Director Jonny Johansson set the tone for reflection rather than spectacle, creating an atmosphere that
felt intimate and contemplative. The show explored contrast in every sense, masculine and feminine,
structure and movement, rawness and refinement.
The setting was stripped of excess, allowing the clothes to breathe. Johansson’s world this season
focused on honesty and instinct. The runway opened with tailored jackets softened by loose
silhouettes, deconstructed shirts layered over gauzy fabrics, and relaxed trousers that skimmed the
floor. Each look carried a sense of ease, as if pulled from reality rather than constructed for display.
Textures played the leading role. Shearling, washed denim, crushed satin, and lightweight wool blended to form new expressions of comfort. There was a deliberate roughness in how fabrics
met, a reminder that imperfection can feel more human than precision. Long skirts brushed against biker jackets, while slip dresses appeared under oversized blazers. The styling emphasized
individuality, allowing each piece to tell its own story.
The colour palette leaned into neutral calm. Shades of charcoal, ivory, and faded denim sat beside moss green and deep burgundy. Occasional highlights of powder pink and sky blue broke
through the muted tones, adding quiet optimism. Accessories followed the same balance — oversized belts, minimalist jewelry, and structured bags that carried both edge and function.
The front row reflected the brand’s understated yet global reach. NCT’s Johnny attended in a texture
charcoal jacket over a checked button-down shirt, paired with loose grey trousers. The
mix of tailored and casual echoed Johansson’s message of duality. The look felt grounded, with an effortless confidence that matched the collection’s tone. His presence added a cool sense of
ease to the evening, bridging K-pop influence with Scandinavian minimalism.
As the show unfolded, the pace remained steady. There were no grand gestures or dramatic reveals. Instead, each look invited the audience to pause and observe. Johansson’s design
philosophy this season leaned into subtle rebellion, showing how clothing can hold depth without shouting for attention. He redefined what luxury means in a world that values honesty over
perfection.
When the lights dimmed, the mood stayed reflective. Acne Studios SS26 was not about transformation but about presence. It asked who we are when we strip things down, when fashion stops
performing and starts feeling. Johansson’s work continues to push beyond trends, capturing emotion in fabric and form.
Acne Studios reminded Paris that quiet confidence can be just as powerful as bold expression. True style begins when we stop trying to impress and start being ourselves.
