Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027 moved through contrasting ideas of dressing, from Prada’s study of the skirt and Fendi’s lingerie-inspired layers to Diesel’s immersive nightlife setting and Max Mara’s refined approach to utility.
Prada
Prada placed the skirt at the centre of its Spring/Summer 2027 womenswear collection at Fondazione Prada. Under Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, the familiar garment became a framework for exploring shape, material and function.
Contrasting Velcro worked as both fastening and surface detail beneath crystal embroidery, allowing pieces to change shape or expose embellishment. Oversized metal snaps took on a jewellery-like quality, while crinoline moved from hidden construction to an exposed decorative element.
Ciré matt and Re-Nylon were transformed through pleating, while cotton was treated to resemble leather and suede. Crystal constructions recreated the appearance of guipure lace, alongside floral prints across cotton and synthetic fabrics. Elsewhere, pleated material extended beyond the body and into the hand.
Sweaters, shirts and bra tops shifted how the skirts were perceived from look to look, showing how many interpretations could emerge from one established wardrobe piece.
NCT’s Jaehyun brought a darker edge to the Prada front row, layering a sharp black tailored jacket over a casual top. Slim-cut trousers tucked into heavy combat-style leather boots continued the structured styling, while a vibrant red knitted beanie added a striking hit of colour.
TWICE’s Sana took a more pared-back approach in a sleek black sleeveless dress, gently defined at the waist with a slim Prada leather belt. A classic black Prada handbag and pointed heels completed the all-black look.
Making his first Milan Fashion Week appearance, Lee Do Hyun chose a chocolate-brown suit with oversized lapels over a white knitted turtleneck and black scarf. Chisa wore a sheer translucent top layered over black with streamlined dark trousers.
From crystal-covered surfaces to exposed construction and shifting proportions, Prada kept returning to the same question: just how many ways can the skirt be reimagined?
Fendi
Fendi looked to 1970s Italian pop culture for SS27, with Raffaella Carrà and the spirit of her television era informing a wardrobe that blurred the distinction between lingerie and ready-to-wear.
Lace-trimmed bras remained visible beneath clothing, joined by fine knits, bloomers, camisoles and sheer slip dresses. Soft fabrics and low-slung proportions were contrasted by black tailoring, leather chokers, distressed denim and oversized leopard-print coats.
The runway unfolded within a mirrored setting inspired by Italian artist Luciano Fabro’s Cubo di specchi, multiplying the looks and revealing them from changing perspectives as models moved through the space.
Stray Kids’ Bang Chan and TWICE’s Mina attended the show in opposing palettes.
Fendi House Ambassador Bang Chan wore a long crinkled charcoal trench with a matching shirt, black tie and wide-leg trousers, carrying a textured Fendi Baguette.
Fendi Japan Ambassador Mina chose a flowing white silk slip dress with fine straps and a draped neckline. A wide black leather collar and matching cuffs brought contrast to the softness of the dress, completed with a black-and-white Fendi bag.
Between sheer layers, lingerie details and harder elements of tailoring and leather, Fendi SS27 found its character in the contrast between softness and structure.
Diesel
Diesel transformed its SS27 presentation into The Ultimate Night Out, replacing the conventional runway with an immersive club environment filled with music, movement and performers positioned among the audience.
The show marked Glenn Martens’ final collection as Diesel’s Creative Director after six years at the House.
Denim remained central to his approach, heavily distressed, lasered and treated to create surfaces resembling cracked leather. Trompe-l’œil graphics altered ribbed pieces, while jagged orchid-like cut-outs revealed sections of skin alongside micro denim shorts. The Pantasock further disrupted familiar construction by extending trousers directly into structured footwear.
ATEEZ’s Yunho returned to the Diesel front row in an oversized dark-wash denim jacket layered over a graphic hoodie. He carried the D-One top-handle bag in treated brown leather.
Against the energy of The Ultimate Night Out, distressed surfaces, exposed skin and unconventional construction brought Glenn Martens’ final Diesel collection back to the rebellious codes that shaped his time at the House.
Max Mara
Max Mara turned to the independent spirit of women explorers and aviation pioneers of the 1930s, including Amelia Earhart, for a collection centred on practical dressing and considered restraint.
Creative Director Ian Griffiths translated those references through loose trousers, crisp white shirts, structured chore jackets and lightweight trench coats. Substantial linen shaped the tailoring, while glossy gabardine introduced a leather-like finish.
Camel, sand, grey, black and white formed the palette, accompanied by capacious suede bags and sturdy block-heeled boots.
Girls’ Generation’s Yoona attended as a Friend of the Brand in a tonal brown ensemble featuring an oversized double-breasted blazer, fluid blouse and wide-leg trousers. She finished the look with dark sunglasses, understated gold jewellery and a newly cut short bob.
With utility at its foundation, Max Mara SS27 showed how practical pieces could retain their purpose while taking on a more polished, considered form.
Across the four collections, familiar wardrobe codes took on different forms for SS27, whether through Prada’s experiments with the skirt, Fendi’s interplay between lingerie and outerwear, Diesel’s manipulated denim or Max Mara’s functional tailoring.
