Milan Fashion Week SS27 continued with four very different takes on the season. Gucci stepped into Demna’s vision for the House, Ferragamo looked back to the 1940s, Dolce & Gabbana returned to Sicily, while Bottega Veneta moved towards a lighter, more relaxed wardrobe.
The front rows had plenty to watch too, with Hwang In-youp, Park Gyu-young, ATEEZ’s San, RIIZE’s Sungchan and Song Hye-kyo among the guests in Milan.
Here, NNT MODE looks at the collections and what the stars wore to the shows.
Gucci SS27: Demna’s First Runway Chapter
For his first complete runway collection at Gucci, Demna explored different sides of the House rather than settling into a single mood.
Menswear looked towards the late 1980s and early 1990s, with narrow tailoring, cigarette trousers and leather bomber jackets. Womenswear shifted between sculpted tailoring, tartan, glossy minidresses and fluid evening gowns.
Familiar Gucci codes remained throughout. The Horsebit returned in exaggerated proportions across clothing, jewellery and accessories, while oversized eyewear added to the collection’s larger-than-life details.
On the front row:
Hwang In-youp kept things classic in a black double-breasted suit with a black tie, adding contrast with a white floral brooch.
Park Gyu-young also arrived in black, but took a more dramatic approach with a textured look shaped by sculptural detailing.
Ferragamo SS27: Looking Back to the 1940s
Maximilian Davis turned to the 1940s for Ferragamo SS27, looking at how clothing changed during a decade shaped by war, work and shifting roles for women.
That influence appeared through high-waisted tailoring, pencil skirts, military-inspired pockets and double belts. Against the more structured pieces, Davis introduced translucent rubber, sequins, leather and fluid draping to keep the collection from feeling too literal.
The House’s archives also played a role. Ferragamo’s original 1947 F wedge informed a new generation of stilettos, sandals and slingbacks, bringing one of its historic designs into the SS27 wardrobe.
On the front row: Nana wore a slip-style midi dress that mixed a dark brown satin bodice with an earthy patterned skirt. She paired it with sheer tights, pointed black slingback heels and a structured black Ferragamo bag with gold hardware. Her sharp, chin-length bob kept the look clean against the softer textures of the dress.
Dolce & Gabbana SS27: Back to Sicily
Dolce & Gabbana returned to Sicily for SS27 with Stravaganza Siciliana, bringing together pieces that felt as though they had been collected from different generations and wardrobes.
Tweed appeared alongside bloomers, embellished denim, lace, chiffon, crochet and leopard print. The signature Dolce jacket was softened and made less rigid, while lingerie moved beyond the underlayer, appearing visibly beneath sheer dresses and tailoring.
On the front row: ATEEZ’s San mixed the polished with the casual. He wore a midnight-blue velvet blazer over a silky dark shirt, paired with distressed light-wash denim.
A statement belt, gold cross necklace and polished black shoes finished the look, bringing together the same contrast between dressed-up and undone seen throughout the collection.
Bottega Veneta SS27: A Lighter Way of Dressing
For Bottega Veneta SS27, Louise Trotter loosened things up.
Inspired by the space between city and sea, the collection moved away from heavier construction towards silhouettes with more movement. Broad shoulders were balanced by rounded skirts, while raw silk, linen and open-weave cotton gave the clothes an airy quality.
Craft remained central to the House, from lightweight leather construction and Venetian knitting to new interpretations of Intrecciato.
On the front row: Song Hye-kyo made her first official appearance as Bottega Veneta’s new Global Brand Ambassador in a grey trench coat with a contrasting leather collar, paired with a black Intrecciato bag.
RIIZE’s Sungchan brought a brighter note to the front row in an Azurite blue sweater with dark tailored trousers. Coordinating Intrecciato leather accessories completed his look.
Across Gucci, Ferragamo, Dolce & Gabbana and Bottega Veneta, Milan SS27 moved in very different directions. Archival references met new proportions, tailoring became both sharper and softer, and familiar House signatures were given another look.
Off the runway, the front rows carried those ideas into their own styling, adding another fashion moment to each show.
