Glenn Martens finds strength in simplicity and elegance in the undone.
At Paris Fashion Week, Maison Margiela presented its Spring Summer 2026 collection led by Glenn Martens. The show took place in a white-draped space where light, sound, and emotion felt intertwined. A live orchestra of children performed softly in the background, setting a surreal atmosphere that balanced innocence with intensity.
Martens approached the collection with quiet focus. He stayed true to the Maison’s heritage of deconstruction but brought a sense of warmth and refinement to it. Each look carried the balance between control and release, between what is made and what is left undone. The pieces felt like memories given form, imperfect yet deeply expressive.
One of the standout moments came with a model in a plunging black halter vest, designed with a double-breasted cut and paired with loose black leather trousers. The outfit moved naturally, the contrast between the strong lines and fluid material reflecting Martens’ understanding of balance. It was daring but not loud; sharp but never harsh.
The black mouthpiece worn by several models became one of the most striking elements of the show. It gave the presentation a sense of mystery and restraint, as if each look carried a secret. It was not meant to shock, but to remind the audience that silence can speak with power.
The color palette stayed minimal and true to Margiela’s DNA. Shades of black, grey, ivory, and muted brown defined the mood, with a few silver tones appearing under the light. Textures were key: leather, wool, and translucent fabrics played together in layers that revealed depth and emotion. Accessories remained sparse, allowing the craftsmanship to take the
spotlight.
In the front row, SEVENTEEN’s Jun drew attention for his effortless style. He wore a charcoal grey overcoat layered over a black zip jacket, paired with sage green trousers and worn
metallic sneakers. The mix of textures and tones gave his look a natural sense of ease. It felt quietly refined, matching the Maison’s understated spirit.
As the final look appeared, the orchestra’s notes faded into stillness. The atmosphere shifted from performance to reflection, leaving a lasting impression. Maison Margiela SS26 was not
about perfection or spectacle. It was about honesty, vulnerability, and the grace of imperfection.
Glenn Martens reminded us that true beauty is never polished. It is found in texture, emotion, and the courage to stay unfinished.
